![]() ![]() One of the drawbacks that detractors always cling to is the ‘warm up’ time: there can be (depending on type of ballast) five to 10 seconds until the bulbs reach their maximum intensity. The HIDs lower current draw is also significant, given they are driven by 35 or 50 watt systems. The next big improvement is the bulb life expectancy of over 7000 hours however, it’s not unheard of for them to blow with much less use than that. While prices have plummeted since their introduction (from thousands per light to hundreds per pair of lights) they are still significantly dearer than halogen lights. HID: The step up in cost and outright light brilliance are the major factors with HID lights. It’s also easy to up the wattage to 130 or even 150 (provided your casing, lens, reflector, alternator and wiring are all up to the task), or try playing with different coloured bulbs or covers for a bluish appearance if you must. Given their shortcomings, halogen lights can still cast a decent length and width of beam. I spent close to 20 years ‘putting up with’ halogens and that included a stint around Australia for 24 months in which I replaced the bulbs (with the cheapest ones I could find at the time) only a hand full of times. Many travellers have lapped Australia and had to endure the occasional blown bulb (which is easily and cheaply replaced), put up with the yellowish light output and make sure they don’t exceed the alternator output. While they are the lowest price, don’t discount their superiority over OEM headlights. Halogen: Being the oldest form of forward driving lights (readily available), you don’t need to look any further if you’re looking at doing the least damage to your bank balance. To increase the brain strain, add the need to choose between old school halogen (quartz halogen is simply a quartz glass bulb with halogen gas inside) beams, high intensity discharge (HID, or known as Xenon by some it’s still a quartz glob but filled with Xenon gas), or the latest type – light emitting diode (LED). If you ticked the pencil beam box, how far do you really want to see ahead 500 metres, 800 metres or is it really necessary to see 2000 metres down the track? Mind-boggling stuff and pretty much anything is available, depending on how deep your pockets are. ![]() You still get to choose pencil or spread beams, but how much of each do you need or want 10 degrees, 20 degrees or up to (almost) 180 degrees of light throw. Nowadays, there’s endless choice on offer in the lighting scene. This article was originally published in the August 2014 issue of 4x4 Australia. Sure, you got to wrack your brain deciding on a pencil or spread beam and whether to ‘up’ the bulbs from 100 to 130 watt in some brands. keep it to < an extra 200W at any time.Not so long ago, when looking for driving lights, the only choice you had were halogen lights. ![]() Don't go overboard- remember, your alternator isn't sized for very much overhead. A nice 55W pair of fog lights and a some HID converted driving lights will do wonders. Think about some good quality, but reasonable add-on lights. Adjust your low beams to shine out 40-50yds when you're not loaded. Give your adjusting screws some liberal lubrication. Make sure your stock lights are in best order- no haze on the lenses, rust on the reflector, and aimed correctly. The LED bulbs that plug into headlight housings are meant to be position/DRL only. For light out-put, stay away from the higher color temps- stick with 4300K (6000K at the most) If we're talking about a quad-beam setup (most mitsus arent), then things are different- you could use an HID in the high-beam, in combination with a good quality halogen lamp in the low beam. The geometry of the arc often doesn't match the filament being replaced, so the light patterns are unpredictable. Also, HID is a cludge, at best for single lamp set-ups, as they usually use a damper of some kind to switch low and Hi beams. Exactly right! Besides, almost none of the aftermarket HID kits are DOT. ![]()
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